Lewis and Clark in Oregon, October 1805-May 1806
The Lewis and Clark Expedition
would spend time on both the Oregon and Washington shores of the Columbia
River. Back on the water in dugout canoes near Orofino, Idaho they descended
the Clearwater River to its confluence with the Snake River near today's
Lewiston, Idaho. From here they would have been in today's Washington state
to just below Pasco, Washington near the mouth of the Walla Walla River.
They would be frequent visitors to the shores of the Columbia
in both states all the way to the Pacific
Travel was relatively swift but dangerous. They encountered many areas
of whitewater that today have been covered by waters backed up by multiple
damns along the Columbia and Snake Rivers. A lot of time was spent rescuing,
repairing, and drying themselves and their equipment and stores. The most
notable of these rapids and falls were the "falls of the Columbia" near
The Dalles, Oregon. These were a considerable barrier for them. They managed
them well with a combination of portage and skillful whitewater tactics
that no doubt left the natives in awe. Most of the recorded whitewater
disasters were actually from rapids they encountered on the Clearwater
and the Snake.The Dalles area was also a large fishing and trading location
for the natives. Tribes that inhabited the immediate river area subsisted
mainly by fishing the incredible salmon and steelhead runs that once took
place in these rivers. The fish was not only consumed by them but
also traded with tribes that came from all over the northwest to trade
their various goods with one another. After running the most difficult
of the rapids they rested and reorganized at "Fort
Rock",
located not far from downtown in the Dalles, at a site along the river.
Continuing, they were now about to leave the dryer climate and open country
of the Columbia Basin and enter the coastal climate. Marked by old growth
forest, valley woodlands, ancient volcanoes, and wet weather they now found
themselves back on the maps layed down by ocean mariners who preceded them
and had braved the Columbia bar (later named the "graveyard of the
Pacific" for
all the ships lost where the Columbia meets the Pacific ocean) and
sailed up river, mapping as they went. This transition was very quick.
Within a couple of days their whole world changed. Probably more than once in the
coming months would they wish to be back in the dry Basin
country. The entire river route from the confluence of the Snake with the
Columbia was marked by numerous native villages that lined the
river. Upon arriving at the "falls" at The Dalles they encountered
natives who had directly or indirectly traded with Europeans on the coast.
They knew this by clothing and trade articles in possession of these people.
Trading was now much more competitive and the expedition was getting low
on trade goods.
As
they descended the river they saw large numbers of migratory birds, noting
that the noise was on at least one occasion, enough to keep them awake all
night. They were now wet almost all the time and would remain so for most
of their stay on the coast. They also began noticing the tides and knew
that they were now very near the end of their journey west. As they made
their way down into the bays near the ocean they were pinned down by the
weather on the Washington shore near today's Point Ellice. Pounded by surf
and rain and unable to move (and envying the natives who bobbed easily
by in their sleek canoes) they sat on a driftwood pile with their indifferent
dugout canoes till they could stand it no more and a small group of the
better paddlers decided to brave the water for better accommodations. The
were successful and eventually came to rest near today's Ilwaco. From
here each captain led parties to scout the surrounding countryside and
the coast. This would include of course, Cape Disappointment, Cape Disappointment
State Park (formerly Fort Canby State Park), the Long Beach area, and areas
of Willapa Bay. They were looking for a place to spend the winter and not
convinced that this was the ideal location they retreated back upriver,
counciled among themselves, the natives, took a vote and decided to try
the Oregon side where the natives indicated they would find more game,
namely Coastal or Roosevelt Elk. They ended up on the site of today'sFort
Clatsop National Memorial. Here they spent a very wet winter mainly
among the Clatsops who were frequent visitors. They hunted the spruce bogs
and nearby hills with marginal success and traded with natives for other
local delicacies, mainly fish. A small detachment of men was put to work
making salt on the coast near today's Seaside. There was also a trek
over Tillamook Head to the south of Seaside to today's Cannon Beach area
to scavenge a whale that had beached there. The natives beat them to it
so they ended up trading for as much of it as they could. The captains
edited their journals and gathered what they could related to the local
area. By the end of March they had more than enough of the coast and prepared
for their return home.
The Return Trip, March-May, 1806
The return trip was marked mostly by strained relations with the natives
on the lower Columbia. The party had to be constantly vigilant with the
regard to their equipment and possessions. Frequent disappearances
and shortened tempers brought the two cultures close to violent action
on more than one occasion. The most notable was the abduction of Lewis'
dog, Seaman. Lewis threatened to burn the guilty parties village if he
was not returned. The expedition itself was not without guilt either, appropriating
a native canoe when they set out from Fort Clatsop deeming it as payment
for a past theft.
Relations improved as they went upriver. Between The Dalles and
the mouth of the Snake the party traded for horses and went overland.
They left the river near today's Wallula Gap and headed east to the Touchet
River which they followed for the most part to today's Dayton, Washington.
From here they continued overland to Pomeroy and finally back to the Snake
River at Lewiston. From here they retraced their river route of the previous
fall on horses until they reunited with the Nez Perce on the upper Clearwater.